By the mid-19^th Century, the famous Indian Ladder Region of the Helderberg had become a vacation-seeker’s paradise. Escaping the summer heat of the city for the elevated cool mountain breezes and fresh air of forest and field became a habit for many travelers in search of rest and recreation.

One of the earliest testaments to tourism at the “Indian Ladder,” now known as John Boyd Thacher State Park, is recorded on a document now in the archives of the Albany Institute of History and Art. The First Annual Excursion of the Timbuctoo — Sabbath School dated Sept. 6, 1855 was described on a large parchment of paper that included interesting illustrations of the ascent of the Indian Ladder Road built in 1821.

It is unclear as to the actual origin of the school and these travelers, but we do know that Timbuctoo was an African-American community settled in the Adirondacks near Lake Placid during the mid-1800s. Land was made available to families who were willing to make a try at farming in the harsh life of the north.

African Americans at this time in history could not vote on public matters unless they were landowners. Gerrit Smith, an abolitionist and associate of the famous John Brown, was an organizer of this Timbuctoo settlement.

The illustrations of the Indian Ladder Road drawn on this large document each show an African-American figure peering from the border of the scene being portrayed by the artist.

The description of the First Annual Excursion is as follows: “Left Congress Hall at 8 o’clock in the evening — short contest on the Plank Road settled the argument as to comparative speed of horses — arrived at ‘Sloans’ where the party partook of an excellent supper (his usual style) elected their officers and adjourned to their respective rooms at an early hour. After an early breakfast — numerous runs after forgotten baskets etc. — they started for the ‘Indian Ladder’ — arrived in good season — indulged slightly — and succeeded in the reaching of the summit by great exertion on the part of the horses — and drivers.

Proceeded to take a general survey of the mountain — studied the laws of gravitation (rolling off large rocks) and at an early hour went down to the spring to discuss a bountiful repast furnished by Messrs. BATTERMAN and CASE — being admonished by a few drops of rain they made a hasty exit — and started for the neighboring farmhouse — after the horses — about 5 o’clock took up their journey homewards by a different route from the one they came.

“After a pleasant ride (through the rain) they all arrived safely at KEENHOLTS where they rested by the wayside and partook of something for the inner man — A very pleasant time was that at Keenholts! Speeches were made — songs sung and toasts drank — a general good feeling seemed to prevail among the members — until they were warned by the lateness of the hour that they must proceed on their way  rejoicing — Started out in the darkness of the night with the utmost confidence in their leaders knowledge of the road — soon arrived at SLOANS — and after an affecting parting with Messrs. BATTERMAN and CASE proceeded on their journey to Albany with hearts overflowing with gratitude towards their kind entertainers and with firm resolves to dedicate each succeeding sixth of September to an “INDIAN LADDER” excursion during the natural lives of the parties concerned.”

Romantic narrative

This encounter with the Indian Ladder and its surroundings was repeated by many seeking the intrigue of natural rock formations and sylvan delights. The cliffs of the Helderberg escarpment in the vicinity of the Indian Ladder offered unimpaired views of the Mohawk and Hudson valleys unlike any other place.

The most famous and descriptive account of an early visit to the Indian Ladder region was written by Verplanck Colvin in Harpers’ New Monthly Magazine of October 1869. Colvin was instrumental in the creation of the Adirondack Park. He spent 28 years surveying the Adirondacks on behalf of the state of New York.

He, like John Boyd Thacher believed that there was an urgency to protecting these places of rare scenic beauty. At age 22, in 1869, and before venturing into his future relationship with the Adirondacks, he prepared to hone his skills with regard to geological and topographical study, in the Helderbergs.

He and his friend Mills Blake packed up their outdoor gear and recording notebooks and boarded the Albany and Susquehanna Railroad (later called the Delaware & Hudson) leaving Albany for Meadowdale.

He reports that the train was “crowded with tourists.” In Colt’s Tourist Guide through the Empire State, 1871, it is written, “The Albany and Susquehanna Road is an exceptional railway. It lies beside rocky cliffs which could not be entirely blasted away, and among scenery which an army of engineers could not really spoil. It is also a road upon which very few accidents have occurred.

“Therefore, the traveler may step upon one of its trains, with a pretty reasonable certainty of enjoying himself and coming out all right at last, at his place of destination.

“Reader, we are bound for the Helderbergs, until quite recently we knew about as much of the Helderbergs — aside from the fact that we can see their peaks from our windows — as we know of New Zealand. From this state of ignorance we have emerged, and we propose now to impart the information we have gained, to those who are no wiser than we were. And with a mental shiver we recognize the fact, that we cannot do justice to this unique cliff region, without being very geological and quite scientific — but not absolutely stupid, we venture to hope.”

Colt’s Tourist Guide quotes Colvin’s experiences from 1869 stating, “As we believe that excursions to the Helderbergs are to become fashionable, and also because we love to ramble away from the beaten path we will in part transcribe our own experiences.”

Harpers’ New Monthly agreed to purchase and print Colvin’s account of his trip to the Helderbergs and enlisted the famous engraver Harry Fenn to render woodcuts from Colvin’s drawings of his outing.

Harper’ Monthly was a popular publication that was nationally circulated and thus elevated Colvin’s reputation. Respected Albany intellectuals and others gave an immediate and propitious response to this literary work. It allowed him visibility that led him to move in special circles of the scientific community and literary world.

Colvin was admired and revered for his ability to capture his surroundings on paper. His 16-page account of the Helderberg and Indian Ladder Region with illustrations is the most remarkable and romantic narration I have ever found. It is available for reading in more modern publications where it has been reprinted. You must seek it out and read it.

Colvin makes an invitation to the reader early on in his account stating, “To those who desire to escape for a day from the oven-like city in summer; who wish to enjoy a scramble among romantic cliffs, in shady woods, beside cool waterfalls; to gather fossil corals and shells, to visit and explore the known caves, and search for new ones among the cliff ledges, the Indian Ladder region of the Helderbergs offer superior inducements.”

Spiritual refreshment

Early tourism to the “Indian Ladder” continued to increase through the late 19th Century. People were in search of places of rare scenic beauty that also offered healthy recreation.

The Indian Ladder vicinity presents spiritual refreshment along with picturesque views and venerable forests. Many come here to study geology and paleontology as well as Native American history and early settlement. Artists and Lovers have always recognized the inherent attractions that envelop a visitor even to this day.

It is a unique natural landmark that is special for this physiographic area that we know as New York’s Capital Region. As the age of photography came about, many took pictures of family and friends at the wooden ladder symbolizing the Indian Ladder as well as at the mouth of Haile’s Cavern and along the cliffs edge.

These became sentimental souvenirs, along with items like fossils, of their trip to Indian Ladder. Many family histories make strong relationships with togetherness and joyful recreation at what is now John Boyd Thacher State Park.

Indian Ladder is now Thacher Park and the sense that it is the region’s best natural playground and scenic reservation has been well-founded for at least 160 years.

Verplanck Colvin completed his work in the 1869 Harper’s Monthly by saying, “There is not space to mention everything of interest in this forgotten range of hills — the numerous waterfalls and caverns and mountain-split gulfs. If but a few learn from these scant notes that there is something new to be seen at home as well as abroad I am satisfied.”

Please plan to participate in the Centennial Celebration at Thacher Park on Sept. 13 from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

The gift bestowed upon us by the Thacher Family in 1914 and all the following additions of land is truly worth celebrating as well as the efforts by many people to enlarge the park and make it a better place to visit. We are certainly fortunate. Make sure you visit there and find out why!

Editor’s note: This is the third in a series of columns by Timothy Albright that The Enterprise will run, leading up to the September Centennial celebration for John Boyd Thacher State Park.